Mortlach 21 2003 2025 58,3 % SV TWE, WB275255

One of the few worm tub distilleries. Apparently Diageo likes worm tubs. According to the Edinburgh Whisky Academy, the other worm-tub distilleries are Ardnahoe, Ballindaloch, Balmenach, Benrinnes, Brora, Cragganmore, Craigellachie, Dalwhinnie, Edradour, Glen Elgin, Glenkinchie, Knockdhu, Oban, Pulteney, Royal Lochnagar, Speyburn, Springbank, Talisker, Rosebank.

After 2 hours: Nose: Lemon peel, fresh herbs, lemon balm. Different glasses reveal different flavours. Chalk cliffs, freshly laid screed. Wet, freshly cleaned board, solvent. Dust, especially chalk dust. Sorrel. Pasture in the Allgäu, greasy sweet pastries, perhaps fried sweets? That's right, churros. A gym with freshly used equipment, magnesia in the air and on sweaty bodies. First impressions can be deceiving, it takes time.

The palate: Wow, nutmeg, cinnamon, minerals, herbs garden and soup. A few drops of water would make this even sweeter.

Finish: Sweetened green tea, Riesling Steillage Schiefer, a bite of chalky rock, some lemon zest, green apples, mildly spicy paprika.

91/91/92