Bladnoch 35 yrs 1990 2025 54,2% DeDr, WB270987

Chameleonic, a word I came across while googling strange animals with strange behaviours. It has interesting meanings, according to Collins: as in fickle, changeable in purpose, affections, faithless, temperamental; as in mercurial, lively and unpredictable, volatile, even erratic, unstable. An adjective I would very much like to use as a prescription for Bladnoch.

Bladnoch is hard to describe, as production-wise its style is varied. This bottling is perhaps from a light and floral period. At the beginning of the Bell's era it was light and floral, but towards the end of their ownership the Blenders template of nutty and spicy became the norm. There have also been peated versions, rumour has it, but in the Armstrong era. Now, under Australian owner David Prior, the style is very different, light, grassy and malty. Chamalonesque indeed. Is it the same on the palate?

On the nose, after quite a long time: You are right to recognise the repetition of descriptions when you say "candyshop", but of course there are many candyshops and this one is different from the previous ones. It is as if this shop is struggling a little because the sweets have been sitting there for a long time. It's a kind of sweetness you get when the jar of sweets gets a bit wet and dusty. Change of shops, not before buying a few caramels, toffee and skipping the bakery and the gelateria (not original Italian though). Restaurant, this one is Italian, dessert is due, of course tiramisu, rice pudding, a little cinnamon, lots of vanilla sauce, still warm, topped with white chocolate mousse. But there is more, if you are in the right mood, it is as if you are flying towards the sky, floating between the clouds, somehow getting high. Different glasses reveal more subtle aromas, such as the grassy ones I mentioned earlier. But wait, shouldn't they appear later?

Palate, much later: A mixture of Mediterranean fruits such as overripe melon, ananas, peach, apricot. Lots of sharbat, but also white pepper. Interesting matching to Italian dishes: I get espresso and all kinds of coffee, mainly Arabica beans are used.

Finish: In the mouth you get an oily texture, almost a chewy experience, a mouthfeel that I would describe as very elegant. But then the elegance is severely disrupted, the chameleon-like whisky kicks in hard with chilli flavours, more black pepper, angry tannins, she doesn't like the way I talk about her. I am sorry. I offer her a few drops of water. Her mood changes a lot, on the palate it becomes more grapefruit, like biting into lemon, orange or apple seeds. I don't know, water doesn't seem to suit her. I rather skip the water and stay high. As a great man once said: I looked through a lens and ended up abandoning everything else. Sebastiao Salgado (RIP)

92/92/90

Bladnoch 2001 22 Canasta Sherry Butt, WB: 256956

One of those also-suitable-for-self-defence-if-the-content-doesn't-taste-good bottles.

Nose: 60min: The flavours flow into the nose as heavy as the glass. Sweet odours of decay with forest floor, while legends about warriors are told. At the bonfire with stick bread and S'More [smɔəɹ] consisting of a piece of melting chocolate and a roasted marshmallow embedded in two graham crackers. The fire is crackling, in the background wild boar are ploughing up the forest floor, truffles, porcini mushrooms, fresh earth and moss. Of course there are stallions nearby, neighing and sweating. Some saddles defy the heat of the fire. 2h: An apple and some chestnuts suffer in the embers. The nose sticks to the glass, doesn't want O2 but only these Xn molecules. A few dates, rum from an old barrel, red wine Chateau Haut Brion 1993, wine becomes cherry-like, grandma has conjured up Black Forest cherry cake with just the right amount of chocolate. The cake is served in an old library, dusty books, old pages full of knowledge, yellowed wisdom exuding the scent of days gone by.

Palate: ---- unable to write, wordless, painless, yet moaning and writhing, marvelling and whispering. The sky opens up, the holy whisky spirit comes over me, for milliseconds I see the big picture, I know things, I see the past and the future and the present. Time stands still. Words find their place again, mould themselves into black sweetened tea, espresso, dark chocolate. Red wine cream with chocolate, chocolate mousse. All kinds of desserts with heavy red wine and dark chocolate. Finish: Simply endless, never-ending. Heavy red wine, Rioja, but old, very old. Sawdust from a cedar mill, a master guitar maker's workshop, old cellos. Yes, that's what old cellos from the Medici era taste like. After 3 hours: cream, a creaminess fills the mouth. Remains of a red wine and chocolate cupcake.

96/100